With his
fingers swiftly moving on the key board, fixed atop an intricately carved work
station, Ashish Chopra ensures he is always connected to the world outside. At
the same time, his beautifully maintained personal library, makes sure he is
always in touch with the past. A renowned culinary historian, author,
television host, painter and art collector, Chopra adorns many hats with equal élan but most importantly considers
himself a foodie at heart; not by profession but by passion. It is his
relentless spirit for food and travel that has led him to discover and
re-discover life again and again.
A born foodie, Chopra has successfully straddled various paths during the eventful journey of his life. From a young politician and an Hon. Advisor to the Governor of Mizoram to a Social Development advisor of Assam Rifles, Secretary general of FACT and then founder Executive Director of the Institute for Environmental Management and Social Development, his long professional journey spread over three decades never had a dull phase. And one day, he decided, after retrospection and introspection to take permanent sabbatical to pursue his passion for food and travel. His life is now dedicated towards promoting and showcasing India’s rich culinary heritage.
Chopra
feels that food has taught him so much. “Feasting has always been an integral
part of human society and culture. It has always brought people together and
that’s what made me explore it with passion and desire,” he says. His culinary
journey is full of amazing anecdotes and unforgettable incidents. Sharing about
his meeting with His Holiness Dalai Lama, Chopra says how he wanted to become a
monk and shared his desire with Dalai Lama. “The real monk is inside you”, came
the reply from the Holy guru, who jokingly called him Momo Lama, since then many of his
friends have been calling him Momo Lama.
Born in New Delhi , this Punjabi
lad’s love for North East started quite early in life, but he never knew it
would become such an important part of his life and he will eventually marry a
Naga girl. “As a child, I used to visit Assam regularly, as my uncle was in
Railways and soon North East was just like home. While working as an Hon
advisor to the Governor, I got a wonderful opportunity to explore North East
extensively and understand the essence of their food, music and culture.” Chopra
believes that it was his passion for food that could make a Punjabi connect
instantly with people from North East. He subsequently authored NE Belly:
The Basic Northeast Cook Book (2006) – a book on the cuisines of the eight
North Eastern states. He has also documented traditional tribal foods of India
in his another book Tribal Cuisines of India, for which he travelled
extensively throughout the country. Not surprising, over the past one decade or
so he has covered more than 4 lakh km, experimenting and documenting cuisines,
culture, and traditions of more than 250 tribes pan-India. “Food and festivity
is an integral part of their existence and their indigenous knowledge about
various herbs and medicinal plants teaches us a lot. With their lands being
encroached upon now by various agencies, it’s all the more important to
document their cultures before it dies due to rampant modernisation in the
wrong way,” says Chopra
Chopra
also feels passionate about rediscovering lost recipes and restoring their lost
glory. He has done tremendous work to popularise Kadaknath, which was
once known as the‘Pride
of Madhya Pradesh’. He first tasted the bird at the Maharaja of Panna’s
dinner party nearly two decades ago. He was on his way to Rewa, in Madhya
Pradesh (MP), to visit his old friend maharaja Pushpraj Singh Ju Deo. En route,
he decided to stop and meet a mutual acquaintance, the late maharaja of Panna. “That
is where I had the Kadaknath for the first time. I was fascinated by the
jet-black beauty of the bird and, when cooked, it was meaty, chunky and tasted
just like game fowl,” he says. However, Kadaknath could never
retain its popularity during the next two-decades and it remained anguished in
relative obscurity until 2015. Thanks to efforts of culinary historians like
Ashish Chopra, that the revered indigenous chicken has now made a successful
comeback from the backyards of tribal Madhya Pradesh to the tables of luxurious
hotels. Chopra is also an active supporter and a promoter of the slow food
movement, a global initiative to persuade people to move from fast food to
traditional recipes using locally sourced ingredients.
When he
is not experimenting in his kitchen, he is usually conducting workshops and
masterclasses. Just back from a fortnight long shoot in the picturesque
surrounding of Rewa in Madhya Pradesh for Travel XP, he is now off to Kolkata
to conduct workshops in ITC Royal Bengal. Chopra has been a food consultant
with ITC Welcome Heritage group of hotels for several years having documented
the Royal cuisines of the erstwhile Maharajas. He has been invited to co-author
a book on the Royal cuisines of Bhagel with Pushpraj Singh – the erstwhile
Maharaja of Rewa and subsequently Gajraj Singh the Thakur of Diggi State in
Rajasthan has also commissioned him to do a coffee table book on the erstwhile
secret recipes and food traditions of the Diggi State. He has consulted for the
television series, Gordon Ramsey’s Great Escapes on “North east Indian Cuisine”
as well as for BBC and National Geographic Channel. He is also the Principal
Advisor of Woodpecker International Film Festival and Culinary Advisor of
TRAVEL XP Channel and FOOD XP
channel and has also co-hosted a few episodes on the channel.
Transforming
his passion for food as an art form, into a more concrete idea and platform, he
is currently putting his efforts towards the setting up of India’s first School
of Ancient Culinary Arts (SACA). Located in the picturesque surroundings of
Rajaji National park in the foothills of Dehradun in Uttaranchal, the school
will have chefs from villages and they will impart their traditional knowledge
to chefs from different parts of the world. “This will be a place where tops
chefs of big hotels will come and get trained by tribal, rural cooks and share
the rich culinary heritage of India with the world,” he says.
For
Chopra, who has been tirelessly documenting and preserving India’s rich and
diverse food traditions, essence of life is an unending quest to explore,
understand and rediscover food.